Sunday, June 13, 2021

Whipped ice cream - Iced Froths or Mousses Glacees in 1869

Jules Gouffe (1807-1877) was born to a Parisian patisserie (pastry shop) owner and spent seven years with the great Careme.  In his 1869 cookbook he tried to popularize the lighter Iced Froths served in jelly glasses.  They were "superior to either Ices or Sorbets" during "this transition period" and thus "improve the indifferent quality of the refreshments now served at evening parties." The frothing stick and sieve were needed to make his 5 flavors: Chocolate, Coffee, Strawberry, Maraschino and Almond Milk.

"Before giving the several recipes for these Iced Froths, I will give a list of the utensils required for their preparation.

First. A frothing-stick: this is a boxwood mallet-shaped instrument about a foot long (vide woodcut); the head is hollowed out into ridges, to produce the froth quicker and in greater abundance; the handle is cut to an octagonal shape, so that it may be twirled with greater ease between the hands.  This frothing-stick can be obtained at all respectable turners.  [click images to enlarge]

Secondly.  2 large basins
Thirdly.  Several hair draining-sieves

Fourthly. A tinned copper skimmer.
Fifthly. A large knife, to detach the froth from skimmer.
Sixthly. A copper freezing-case.

Although this kind of ice is seldom served, I have thought it best to describe it; it is just possible that, in this transition period, we may see an attempt made to improve the indifferent quality of the refreshments now served at evening parties; and then such delicate preparations as these Iced Froths will be in request;

I consider these froths, on account of their lightness, superior to either Ices or Sorbets; They are cool to eat, without freezing the palate, and do not increase thirst instead of slaking it, as so many sweetened drinks do.  Finally, they have the advantage of being perfectly wholesome and suited to the weakest digestion.


Put in a sugar-boiler :
1 1/2 lb. of chocolate, broken in pieces,
3/4 lb. loaf sugar, also broken up,
3 pints of water;

Stir the chocolate over the fire until it is melted; boil for ten minutes, and strain the whole through a silk sieve into a large basin;

Allow the chocolate to cool for several hours and add 1 pint of double cream;

Place a draining-sieve on another basin;

Begin frothing the chocolate with the stick; whisk it at the edge of the basin rather than in the middle;

When the froth thickens, and its bubbles are small and close together, take it off with the skimmer, and put it on the sieve to drain;

Continue whisking until all the chocolate, even that which has dripped through the sieve, is converted into froth;

When thoroughly drained, heap the froth lightly into jelly-glasses;

Place the glasses in a freezing-case previously set in rough ice and bay salt; close the case, and let the glasses remain therein until wanted.

The preparation of the Iced Froth requires some practice ;

The sieve containing the froth must not be shaken ; the glasses must be filled properly without pressing the froth down, as its lightness is its principal attraction.

A stick of vanilla or a little vanilla sugar may be boiled with the chocolate.


Mix in a basin :

1 quart of double cream,
1/2 pint of very strong coffee,
3/4 lb. of pounded sugar

Strain the whole through a silk sieve, and whisk and finish the froth as directed in the preceding recipe.


Mix in a basin :

1 quart of double cream,
3 gills of strawberry juice,
3/4 lb. of pounded sugar, 
a few drops of prepared cochineal 

Strain the whole through a silk sieve into a basin, and finish the froth as directed for Chocolate Iced Froth.


Mix in a basin:
1 quart of double cream,
1/2 pint of Maraschino,
1/2 lb. of pounded sugar
Strain and finish the froth as directed for Chocolate Iced Froth.


Blanch and peel 1/4 lb. of Jordan almonds and 2 oz. of bitter almonds;
Pound the almonds in a mortar, adding 3 gills of water whilst pounding; press the almonds through a coarse broth napkin, previously washed in boiling water and rinsed in cold water;
Put the almond milk in a basin, with:
1 quart of double cream,
3/4 lb. of pounded sugar
Mix, and strain the whole through a silk sieve into a basin, and whisk and finish the froth as described for Chocolate Iced Froth.
Observation.--Should the preparations not froth easily, add a little more cream.

Gouffe, Jules.  The Book of Preserve (Le Livre de Conserves) … Translated from the French by Alphonse Gouffe head pastrycook to her Majesty the Queen.  London: 1871  [French ed 1869, translated by younger brother Alphonse (1813-1907)]

Jefferson, Mary Randolph, Francatelli bombs, Ice cream bombs, Spongati, Fuller’s Freezing Machine, Baked Alaska, Lady Baltimore Ice C., Neapolitan I.C., Nesselrode Pudding (I.C.), Flavors: Pine Apple, Citron melon, Chocolate (17th, 18th, 19th), Snow

17 images of Freezing Pots, Sorbetieres, Ice Cream Makers & Freezers from 1751 to 1916 blog post HERE


Jun 14 Mon 7-8:15 The History of Ice Cream in New York w/ DIY Ice Cream Making Demo. Meg Lynch from the Morris-Jumel Mansion. Sharon Historical Society, Sharon Springs, NY HERE

Jun 17-18 Th-Fri 4-11:30 AM You Are What You Eat: Food and Identity From The Middle Ages to the Modern, 2 day conference “featuring 23 papers on a wide range of themes / regions / periods.” Warwick Food History Conference. Warwick Food Global Research Priority. University of Warwick UK HERE

June 18 Fri 4-10:30 AM Species of Domestic Spaces: House and Home in Eighteenth-Century Ireland Conference. UCD Humanities Institute. U. College Dublin HERE

©2021 Patricia Bixler Reber
Researching Food History HOME

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