Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Penn and Plenty

"The Land of Penn and Plenty: Bringing History to the Table" is the 2012 annual theme for the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission.
Events and exhibits will be listed HERE
March 11 is the annual Charter Day, when many of the PHMC museums have free admission. For the list of participating museums click HERE

Monday, February 20, 2012

Washington Pie part 2

The previous posting on Washington Pies, HERE described the round layered cake with jelly or cream filling.  The second type of Washington Pie was a square cake composed of broken cake pieces within a bottom and top pie crust.  According to the following newspaper article, it probably was named for Washington, DC where it was sold in many bakeries prior to the Civil War, and when sold "... in Baltimore... there was nothing of Washington about it except the name."

“Washington Pie is distinctly a home production,” explained a Fourteenth street [Washington, D.C.] baker to a Washington Star reporter, “and originated in this city, though I am not clear as to the exact date.  I have had an intimate acquaintance with Washington pie for forty years [1860s] and during that time have made and handled an immense quantity of it.
As it was originally made, it was very fine, though it fell into disrepute during the war [Civil War], when certain bakers, in their efforts to produce great quantities of it, were not so very careful as to what it was composed of.  Some bakers got to making it out of stale bread and the like, and for awhile it fell out of favor.
Washington pie, properly made, consists, in the way of works, of odds and ends of broken cakes that pile up in bakeshops.  They are just as good as if they were whole, but because they are not whole they are at times unsalable.  When bakers found themselves with an overstock of broken cakes on hand they generally went into Washington pie. 
The first process was to dampen them [the cake pieces] with water and milk or cream.  Some raisins were thrown in and some spices.  There was a pie crust put under and over it and the result was Washington pie.  Now and then some pies that happen to get broken were put into the works which made Washington pie so toothsome and satisfactory to so many thousands.
It was always baked in square pans about two and a half feet wide and long, and was always cut up into squares when sold.  When it was fresh and hot it was decidedly good eating.
In many of the hotels and boarding houses Washington pie was served at meals covered with a nice sauce, and in this way there was more of it served than any other pies.  There was nothing exclusive about it, for nearly all bakers made it and found a ready sale for it, many serving it to their customers while it was hot.  There were also great quantities of it sold by the bakers in the city markets.
During this time there was a great sale for Washington pie in Baltimore, though, or course, there was nothing of Washington about it except the name.  It also found its way to New York, and even to this day [1898] Washington pie is consumed in great quantities at the Astor House and other down town lunch places. 

There is some Washington pie still made and sold in this city [DC], but it is inconsiderable in comparison to what the Washington boys of thirty-five or forty years ago consumed.” [ Milwaukee Sentinel Nov. 15, 1898 from the Washington Star newspaper]
____
"The very cheap articles so often met with at the coffee stands and lunch houses in the vicinity of the docks and railroad depots, and known as Washington pie, railroad cake, etc., are made up chiefly of the refuse and waste material of the bakeries, old and musty cakes, waste fruit, a little spice and much molasses."  [Food adulteration, or, What we eat, and what we should eat. J. T. Pratt.  Chicago: 1880]

WASHINGTON PIE.   1910 recipe
Line the pan with a crust, then fill with a rich, yellow cake dough, bake, let cool, then cover with blackberry or raspberry jam. Put a heavy meringue on the top and place in the oven to brown.
The Altrurian cook book: favorite recipes  By Troy Altrurian Club (Troy, N.Y.) 1910

For previous postings about Washington click on: Washington Pie – round layer cake, jelly or cream filled ; and  Washington Cakes ; and President's cakes, pies, jumbles and pudding

©2012 Patricia Bixler Reber
hearthcook.com

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Washington Pie

For Washington’s Birthday the other year I posted information on Washington Cakes, HERE and this year the topic is Washington Pie.  During the 19th century, there were two types of cakes called Washington Pie.  The first was a round layer cake of sponge or pound cake with jelly or cream between the layers like Jelly Cakes or Boston Cream Pies.  The second Washington Pie was composed of pieces of leftover cake moistened and encased in pie crust, baked in  2 1/2 foot square pans and initially sold at Washington, D.C. bakeries.

TINS, PANS 
The batter was baked in “deep Washington pie-tins”, “shallow and circular tins half an inch deep” [Bliss, 1850, below] or  “… a wooden box-cover…”  

JELLY FILLING

“…when cold, lay one on a plate, and spread over it marmalade, or any other jelly, as thick as the cake; then cover it with another cake.” [Mrs. Putnam’s Receipt Book.  Boston: 1850]  In a story in Student and Schoolmate magazine, Boston, 1869, one of the characters said he “had a piece of Washington pie, and that would have been well enough, only I like the jelly thick, and that jelly was thin.”

Jelly Cakes and Robert E Lee Cake [married Washington’s great granddaughter who inherited Arlington House], also had jelly between the cake layers.  A few recipes  such as Godey’s Lady’s Book, 1870 or Housekeeping in Old Virginia, 1879 had applesauce between the layers of the Washington Pie.
CREAM FILLING

Starting in the 1880s, cream or custard, white or chocolate was being used between the layers, and in the early 1900s that was the most popular.  The White House Cookbook, 1889 said it was similar to Boston Cream Pie,  the difference was adding half an ounce of butter.  The magazine for the Boston Cooking School:   “Query No. 2666. — "Recipes for 'Boston Pies,' the ones made under the names of 'Washington Pie,' 'Washington Cream Pie,' and 'Chocolate Washington Pie?'"
‘Boston Pies’  As we understand the matter, these "pies" are a plain, cheap cake-mixture baked in round, layer-cake pans; the filling for Washington Pie being jam or jelly, for Cream Pie a mixture known as "English Cream," while the filling for a Chocolate Washington Pie is an English Cream in which chocolate is melted. The cake-mixture... is suitable for any of these pies.” [American Cookery, 1921 ]

TOPPINGS
The finished cake would be topped with powdered sugar, iced, "...frosting, made of sifted confectioners' sugar and hot milk or water with a little flavoring, makes a good finish for the top of these cakes, though quite as often they are finished by simply sifting a little confectioners' sugar over the top.” [American Cookery, 1921 ] or “…decorate the top with angelica and cherries, maraschino style. Cover the decoration with a glaze made of apricot jam, strained fine.”  [American Cookery.  Boston: 1921 (Boston Cooking School)]   photo above.

NAME
George Washington was the inspiration for the name of this cake.  In several early cookbooks the recipe preceeded recipes for LaFayette Cake, and Bliss, 1850 said “This cake is sometimes called Washington Pie, Lafayette Pie, Jelly Cake, &c.”   Washington’s Birthday Cake was the title of the recipe in the 1921 Boston Cooking School magazine. 

“It has been commonly believed of the people born and bred in America that most of them attained a premature old age without having ever, in the whole of their brief span, seen a home made loaf of bread … that the Washington pie was so called by way of paying the highest possible honor to the Father of his Country… [The Nation: a weekly journal.  NY: 1866] 
“The birthday of the immortal Washington was celebrated with appropriate ceremonies  … and at one boarding-house, at least, Washington pie appeared on the dinner-table.”  [The Harvard Advocate.  1870] In 1853, Washington Pie was listed in the Bill of fare for the “Second festival of the Sons of New Hampshire: celebrated in Boston, November 2, 1853”

RECIPES
WASHINGTON CAKE.
Beat to a cream half a pound of butter and half a pound of white sugar; then stir in eight eggs well beaten, one glass of rose-water, and one pound of sifted flour; bake in shallow and circular tins half an inch deep; when done, spread a thick layer of raspberry jam, or any marmalade or jelly, upon one cake and lay another cake upon the top of the jam, and sift white sugar over the whole.

This cake is sometimes called Washington Pie, Lafayette Pie, Jelly Cake, &C.
Practical Cook Book.  Mrs. Bliss of Boston.  Phila: 1850
WASHINGTON PIE

1 cup sugar, 3 eggs beaten separately, 3 tablespoons of milk, 1 1/2 cups sifted flour, 1 large teaspoon baking powder, flavor with vanilla. Bake in tin pie plates, when cold split each and fill with
Cream Filling—Put 1 pint of milk to boil in double boiler, beat 2 eggs very light, mix 1 cup of sugar 1/2 cup of flour and stir into eggs beat wel1 and add to boiling milk, butter size of hickory nut, melt 1/4 pound of Baker's chocolate add to the cream, flavor with vanilla, when cold spread between the cake.
Favorite recipes By First Presbyterian Church… Pa: 1913

Custard Cake or Martha Washington Pie.
Three eggs, one and a half cups of sugar, one-half cup of cold water, two cups of flour, two iieaping teaspoons of baking powder. Beat eggs and sugar five minutes with Dover egg beater. Add other ingredients and beat well. Bake in three tins in a very moderate oven.
Filling.— One and a half cups of rich milk, one-half cup of sugar, yolks of two eggs, two scant tablespoons of cornstarch. Heat milk in double boiler, cream sugar, starch and egg yolks, add to hot niilk and stir until well cooked. Flavor with lemon. Put between the layers.
Frosting.— Whites of two eggs beaten stiff, eight tablespoons of finest confectioners' sugar, one square chocolate melted. Cover the top and sides of cake. Flavor with vanilla.
Malone Cookbook.  NY: 1917

For previous postings about Washington click on: Washington Pie – square with pie crust on top and bottom ; and Washington Cakes ; and President's cakes, pies, jumbles and pudding

©2012 Patricia Bixler Reber
hearthcook.com

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Farm to Table in Early Baltimore exhibit

Federal Foodies: From Farm to Table in Early Baltimore 
Feb 3 – April 29, at Homewood Museum, Johns Hopkins, Baltimore, MD
"Charles Carroll Jr. took great pride and pleasure in creating a beautiful and productive setting for his Federal-era summer house, Homewood, with fields, gardens, and orchards set amidst 130 picturesque acres. Federal Foodies examines this intersection of house and landscape by taking a closer look at food, farming, and festivity in early Baltimore. From farming and gardening practices to how foods were preserved, prepared, and presented, the exhibition offers insights into farm-to-table living, nineteenth-century style."

Two events will be held for the general public.
Feb 26, 2-4 Urban Agriculture Panel Discussion at Mattin Center J-H
April 1, 12-4 Historic Farm Day.
For more information click HERE

Monday, January 23, 2012

Julienne Soup

Potage a la Julienne was/is a soup of broth with vegetables evenly cut in long thin square shapes, like wooden matchsticks or shoesting potatoes. The manner in which the vegetables were cut, julienned, is the source of the name. 

"This is a favourite soup, and now highly in vogue..." [Verral, William.  A Complete System of Cookery.  London: 1759]  Many of the soups during the 18th century involved putting the cooked vegetables and meat through seive, leaving a clear broth. 

Vegetables, such as carrots and turnips, were to be cut "riband-like," while celery, leeks and onions were cut in small even slices or "lozenges" shape.  [Rundell, Maria. A New System of Domestic Cookery, Phila: 1844]  Verral described cutting the carrots and turnips "...about an inch in length, cut long-ways, slice it very thin, and cut into small square pieces the full length..."

Simpson's Cookery in 1834 contained a recipe for Vegetable, or Gardener's Soup which differed from Julienne by cutting "...a variety in the forms of your vegetables - round, crescents, lozenges, and olives, not cut very small." 

The sliced vegetables were fried in oil or butter, or blanched in water for a few minutes. During the "...summer time add green peas, asparagus tops, French beans, some lettuce or sorrel." [Rundell]  With green peas "..fling in an handful or two, but very young, for the old ones will thicken your soup, and make it have a bad look."  [Verral] 

Once prepared, the vegetables were placed in broth or "clear gravy" [Rundell] of beef, veal, chicken or vegetable to simmer.  The soup could be thickened with bread cut in shapes, or "...crusts of two or three manchets, or French rowls, in a stewpan, boiling them till very tender in as much as will fill your soup-dish." [Verral]

Recipes from 1759 and 1846:

Potage, or Soup a la Julienne.
This is a favourite soup, and now highly in vogue, and not much more expensive than the former. [Soup Sante with herbs] Instead of beef and veal for its broth, make it of a hen and veal and a bit of ham, seasoned as before. Make your gravy of it as for Soup sante; provide some bits of carrots about an inch in length, cut long-ways, slice it very thin, and cut it into small square pieces the full length; prepare some turnips in the same manner, some celery in the smallest bits you can of equal length; blanch all this two or three minutes, strain them, and put them in your soup-pot, and when your gravy is ready strain it to them; add to this a little purslane, the hearts of two or three lettuce, a little chervil, spinage, and sorrel, minced fine, and boil it together gently for an hour; get your crusts ready as before, and serve it up. If green pease are to be had fling in an handful or two, but very young, for old ones will thicken your soup, and make it have a bad look, You may serve a chicken up in it, or veal as before.
Verral, William.  A Complete System of Cookery.  London: 1759

SOUP A LA JULIENNE.
Take a variety of vegetables: such as celery, carrots, turnips, leeks, cauliflower, lettuce, and onions, cut them in shreds of small size, place them in a stew-pan with a little fine salad oil, stew them gently over the fire, adding weak broth from time to time; toast a few slices of bread and cut them into pieces the size and shape of shillings and crowns, soak them in the remainder of the broth, and when the vegetables are well done add all together and let it simmer for a few minutes; a lump of white sugar, with pepper and salt are sufficient seasoning.
The Jewish Manual.  London: 1846

©2012 Patricia Bixler Reber
hearthcook.com

Monday, January 16, 2012

William Woys Weaver talks in DC

On Feb 11-12, Dr. Weaver will give two presentations in Washington, DC.
Saturday the talk at RIS restaurant, 1:00 for Les Dames d'Escoffier will be on "The Mainstreaming of Heirloom Foods" ($50 for non-members, includes brunch) More info HERE

Sunday his "Food and Drink in Medieval Cyprus" presentation will be given at the CHoW (Culinary Historians of Washington DC) meeting at 2:30 (free) More info HERE

Monday, January 9, 2012

Horse Cakes

“They are gingerbread of the ‘round heart’ consistency, cut in the flat, rude shape of a prancing horse with very prominent ears and very stubbed legs, sold in various small shops in Alexandria [Virginia], along with candy balls, penny whistles and fly-specked ballads.  ‘Horse-cakes’ are an Alexandria institution.  You should buy a few for lunch some day in the bakery…” wrote Abby Woolsey to her sister in August 1861. 
A few years ago I came across this letter while researching the gas bake ovens in the US Capitol in 1861, and was intrigued with the Horse Cakes.  A previous letter described the capture of women spies [on August 23, Rose Greenhow was arrested by Allen Pinkerton in DC].  One spy, an “…old woman declared her packets of letters to be [horse-cakes] between her shoulders.”  [Letters of a Family during the War for the Union.  1899]
SHAPE

Bartlett described them as “Gingerbread rudely fashioned into the shape of a horse.” [Dictionary of Americanisms. 1859]  “They had currants for eyes, and the children never knew whether to begin to eat at the head first or the tail.”  [Harrison, Mrs. Burton.  Old Fashioned Fairy Book.  NY: 1884]

HISTORY
By 1845, horse-cakes were sold at a camp meeting in Anne Arundel County, Maryland [NY Herald  8/28/1845]  At a General Muster, June 15, 1838 on a Virginia courthouse green “… there were little tables where men and women sold horsecakes, cup-cakes, round-cakes, and biscuits. We boys went for these and soon spent all our money.”  [Bagby, Alfred.  King and Queen County, Virginia.1908] The cookies were also sold at an 1856 Worcester, Mass. agricultural show.

 COST
A short story/article which appeared in various newspapers in 1842 contained “…Thomas, here’s a cent – run down to the baker’s and buy a horse cake…” [Macon Weekly Telegraph.  6/14/1842]  After the Civil War horse cakes sold for a penny.  “Another time he was sent to buy a dollar’s worth of horse-car tickets, [for the Navy Department in DC] and came back with a hundred ginger horse cakes.”  [St. Louis Globe-Democrat.  5/28/1885]

MEMORIES

“Many people have a peculiar fancy for these plain cakes, eaten first in early childhood, hence we are glad to give a tried recipe for them, such as can be made at home to please the children, old and young.”  [Southwestern Christian Advocate.  New Orleans, LA  12/4/1884] “Mama has often told us about horse-cakes, and the funny little shop where she used to buy them for a cent apiece.”  [Harrison, Mrs. Burton.  Old Fashioned Fairy Book.  NY: 1884] 
“…horses (which are of cake greatly resembling gingerbread and made in the form of a horse) universally predominates, and not only children but even adults select these as a favorite daily.  It is no unusual spectacle to behold in the northern states an entire court – judge, jury, and lawyers – regaling themselves during an important trial on horse-cakes.”  [International Monthly Magazine of Literature, Science and Art.  NY: 1898]

RECIPE

Ginger Horse-Cakes
One quart of flour, one pint of best Orleans molasses, one cupful of sugar, tablespoonful and a half of ginger, two small teaspoonfuls of soda, half a cupful of sour cream, and a heaping tablespoon of lard.  Sift the flour first, and then sprinkle the ginger well through it, add the sugar and molasses, putting in lastly the soda dissolved in the cream.  Obtain from a tinner a cutter shaped like a horse, for cutting out the cakes.  [The Universal Cookery Book.  NY: 1887

©2012 Patricia Bixler Reber
hearthcook.com

Monday, January 2, 2012

Food History Symposiums 2012

There are several historic food conferences and symposiums in the next three months:

Feb 9-11 Cookbook Conference at the Roger Smith Hotel, NYC
HERE

Feb 10 deadline for speaker proposals for the July 6-8 Oxford Symposium: Wrapped & Stuffed Foods, Oxford, UK
HERE

Feb 24-25 Food and the City Conference. Boston University, MA
HERE

Mar 18-20  Good Spirits: Alcoholic Beverages of the Eighteenth Century, Colonial Williamsburg, VA. HERE

Mar 31 A Ploughman's Lunch - Bread, Cheese, Pickles and Beer; Everyday foods in the late 18th and early 19th centuries
An Historic Foodways Symposium presented by Deborah Peterson's Pantry and Genesee Country Village and Museum.  Mumford, NY
HERE

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Hoecakes & Hospitality Mt Vernon exhibit

Mount Vernon is having an exhibit, Hoecakes & Hospitality: Cooking with Martha Washington, starting February 18, 2012.  From the press release HERE 
"Beginning February 18, 2012, Mount Vernon invites visitors to experience a behind-the-scenes look at the Washingtons’ kitchen through the new exhibition, Hoecakes & Hospitality: Cooking with Martha Washington. On display inside the Donald W. Reynolds Museum, this temporary exhibition celebrates food at Mount Vernon and Martha Washington’s role as early America’s premier hostess. Following food from the Estate’s field to kitchen to table, visitors will see recipes and cookbooks that Martha treasured, pots that simmered in her kitchen, and fine tablewares that made Mount Vernon’s dining room fit for a president. For the first time ever, visitors to the Museum will experience scents as they explore the exhibition - smelling cinnamon, coffee, herbs and warm bread."
The exhibit is planned to be on display until summer 2013.