Another French chef Careme included five recipes, the oldest - ‘Cake de Mille Feuilles A La Ancienne’ in his The Royal Parisian Pastrycook and Confectioner, 1834.
Other names were ‘Lisbon Cake’ (Borella, 1772, 8-9 baked puff pastes the size of plate; fillings of apricot marmalade, currant jelly, gooseberry jelly, raspberry preserves, apple jelly toped with 3 colored icing/glaze), 'Raised Puff Cakes’ (Clermont, 1812, 4-5 uncooked or baked puff paste, fillings of cream or marmalade, covered with paste then baked quickly), and 'Cake of a hundred leaves’ (Beauvilliers, 1827, 5 layers filled with currant jelly, apricot marmalade, verjuice confection, cherries, and lastly cover with paste (pie crust) figures).
More recently the cakes are called ‘Napoleons’ and ‘Vanilla Slice.’
A Lisbon Cake 1772
"IN order to make this cake, get four or five pounds of fine flour, and make a good puff paste; that being done, roll it as thin as a half crown: piece. Then put over it a dish of the bigness of the cake you design to make, cut your paste round it, and put this piece of paste so cut round upon a sheet of paper. Cut out in the same manner seven or eight abbesses more, cutting one of them; into several figures, to be placed on the top of your cake. This being done, let them be baked separately, then glaze the abbess cut out into figures, and
[fillings] make your cake as follows: Put over one of these abbesses a laying of [1] apricot marmalade; then over this another abbess with a laying of [2] jelly of currants; again, another abbess over the last with [3] jelly of goosberries. Continue after the same manner to place the rest of your abbesses, putting between them your several layings of [4] preserved raspberries, [5] apple jelly, &c. placing on the [6] top your figured and glazed abbess, so that the rest may not be seen. To which purpose, your cake must be
glazed [icing] with a [1] white glaze, a [2] green glaze, and a [3] cochineal colour glaze, that it may appear no more than one abbess. Make the glaze thus, beat together in an earthen vessel with a wooden spoon about a pound of powder sugar, the white of two eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. If this mixture proves to be too thin put some more sugar in it; then divide this composition into three parts : in the first, put nothing, but leave it white as it is; in the second, put a little cochineal, to make it red; and the third green, with some juice of spinage.
Glaze your cake from top to bottom, first, with a streak of your white composition, then with a streak of the red and afterwards with a streak of the green following the same order till your cake is entirely glazed. Then to dry your icing, put your cake for a little while, in a warm oven, or before the fire turning it round now and then. Your cake being as it should be, you lay it in its dish, and serve it up. It may be made as small or as large as you please. Borella, Mr. The Court and Country Confectioner. London: 1772
UPCOMING TALKS
Jul 5 Fri 2 Hot Dogs & Sauerkraut. Food without Borders. AARP 30 min HERE
Jul 9 Tue 12 Dainty Desserts for Dainty People: The Feminized History of Gelatin. Sarah Wassberg Johnson. DAR museum HERE
Jul 11 Thu 12:30 Cookbooks, Menus & Society. Special Holiday Foods and Rituals Discovered in Jewish Cookbooks (Jean Moats), The airline menu as a cipher for social, socio-political and technological changes since 1929: the results of a documentary analysis (Dickon Weir-Hughes). The Institute of Historical Research (IHR) HERE
Jul 11 1 Every Farm an Airfield: The Promise of Agricultural Aviation in the Post-World War II Midwest . Peter Simons. State Historical Society of Iowa HERE TAPE may be HERE
Jul 12 Fri 2 Vive la France! Food without Borders. AARP 30 min HERE
Jul 14 Sun 9AM Celebrating Emirati culture, cuisine and heritage. Dubai. Dr Jane Ali-Knight. MACFEST - Muslim Arts and Culture Festival. HERE
July 14-19 online “Gardens, Flowers, & Fruits” Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery HERE
Jul 15 Mon 5:30 Ice: The Forgotten History of America's Obsession. Amy Brady – the author of Ice: From Mixed Drinks to Skating Rinks—a Cool History of a Hot Commodity. replay for one week. New York Adventure Club $12 HERE
Jul 18 Thu 6:30-8 The Great Hunger: The Irish Potato Famine. Jennifer Paxton. Smithsonian Associates $30 HERE
Jul 24 Wed 8 Barbecue, Chicago Style. Dominique Leach. Culinary Historians of Chicago HERE
CALENDAR OF VIRTUAL FOOD HISTORY TALKS HERE
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