The other year I noticed while doing a blog post HERE on the 6 cookbooks (describe freezing pots/tubs and sabotieres) by people who worked at Negri’s, then Gunter’s tea shop; that half (Nutt, Jarrin, Jeanes) included an ice made from elder flowers... called Grape Water Ice. And yet, grapes could also be used to make Grape Water Ice.
Muscadine and Grape Ices with ... Elder flowers
Muscadine Ices 1770
Take one ounce of elder flower, which you put in a sabotiere, pour upon it about half a pint of boiling water, cover your sabotiere with its lid, thus let it draw about half an hour, make then a composition precisely, as it were to make a plain lemon ice, and as directed in that article; to that composition add your infusion of elder flower, pass the whole through a sieve, and put it in the sabotiere to congeal as we have explained.
Borella. The Court and Country Confectioner. London: 1770
GRAPE WATER ICE. 1807
TAKE two handsful of elder flowers, put them into a pot, boil a pint of water and pour it over them, cover them close; then take two gills of syrup and the juice of three lemons, drain all the water from the flowers, add it to the rest, making it palatable, pass it and freeze it; when it is frozen, put it in the shape of a bunch of grapes, close it well and cover the mould with half a sheet of paper; then put it into the ice and salt for one hour before you turn it out.
Nutt, Frederick. The Complete Confectioner London: 1807
Grape Water Ice. 1820
Take a handful of dried elder flowers, put them into a freezing pot, and cover them with boiling water; let them stand for half an hour, strain them through a sieve, and add two lemons ; sweeten it to your liking ; when frozen, add a glass of white wine, but mix it only a little at a time, then put it in your moulds.
Jarrin. William Alexis. The Italian Confectioner: Or, Complete Economy of Desserts. London: 1820 sabotiere image
Grape Water Ice. 1861
POUR a pint of boiling water over two handsful of elder flowers, and cover them down close; after they have stood for forty minutes, drain the water from the flowers, add the juice of three or four lemons and a pint of syrup; when it is frozen, pour over it a glass of Madeira wine, mixing it in gradually. Select your moulds, see that they are clean, fill the Ice in, close down, cover with paper, and cover them with the ice and salt for one hour.
Jeanes, William. The Modern Confectioner. London: 1861
Grape Water Ice using … grapes
GRAPE Ice. 1830 1886
Take ripe grapes, pick them from their stalks, pass them through a sieve; mix some sugar with the juice of four lemons squeezed upon it; pass the whole together a second time through a sieve, then freeze it.
Dolby, Richard. Cook’s dictionary. London: 1830
GRAPE WATER-ICE
I quart of water; 1 pint of grape juice
1 pound of sugar
Boil the sugar and water together for five minutes. Pulp the grapes and add the pulps and skins to the syrup, then press through a sieve, being careful not to mash the seeds. When cold, turn into the freezer, and freeze. This will serve ten persons.
Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book. Sarah Tyson Heston Rorer. Phila: 1886
Ice Cream blog posts HERE
17 Freezing Pots, Sorbetieres, Ice Cream Makers & Freezers images from 1751 to 1916 HERE
'Gunter's Tea Shop' was Negri's 'Pot and Pineapple' founded in 1757 at Berkeley Sq., London ... ice cream recipes in 6 cookbooks – general instructions and images; coffee ice cream recipes HERE
THIS WEEK'S TALKS
Jun 6 Mon 6 Juneteenth: Dishes to Taste and Savor: Recipes from the Sweet Home Café Cookbook. Joanne Hyppolite, Chef Ramin Coles. National Museum of African American History & Culture. Smithsonian. HERE
Jun 7 Tue 5-6:30AM Virgil and the Bees - The Song of Increase. “the rich symbolism attached to bees and investigate the major misconceptions around these mysterious creatures.” Katie Campbell. The Gardens Trust. £5 (or both £8. Je 14) HERE
Jun 7 Tue 9:30AM Culture and cultural diversity in food. “Everyday culinary practice in the Netherlands is often described as ‘international. … How does the diverse diet relate to the cultural diversity of the society (or not)...” Esther Veen and Anna Kooi. University of Amsterdam HERE
Jun 7 Tue 5:30 German naturalist Alexander von Humboldt (1769-1859) and his memorable 1805 visit with Thomas Jefferson. Clay S. Jenkinson. American Philosophical Society, Hybrid HERE
Jun 7 Tue 8 Juneteenth Virtual Cooking Demonstration. Chef Kimberly McNair Brock. The Division of Diversity Equity and Inclusion, The University of Alabama HERE
Jun 8 Wed 10-11:15AM Distant Shores: Colonial Encounters on China’s Maritime Frontier. “migration of Chinese laborers and merchants across a far-flung maritime world” author Dr. Melissa Macauley. LSE Saw Swee Hock Southeast Asia Centre HERE
Jun 8 Wed 12:15 Poor Relief as ‘Improvement’: Moral and Spatial Economies of Care in Long Eighteenth-Century Scotland. Eliska Bujokova, Juliette Desportes. IHR HERE
Jun 8 Wed 1:30-3 Sugar: a substance of kinship and relatedness? Practices of growing children in a Scottish neighbourhood. Imogen Bevan. Warwick University HERE
Jun 8 Wed 2 Inside M & S: featuring English Heritage, Osborne [Queen’s house] Victoria and more. Marks & Spencer resident chef Chris Baber and English Heritage historian Dr Andrew Hann. Sparks Live, Marks & Spencer HERE
Jun 8 Wed 3 “To Have America a Free Port:” Revolutionary Responses to British Caribbean Free Ports. Grant Kleiser. American Philosophical Society HERE
Jun 9 Thu 7:45-8:30? AM On the Production Methods of Pot-still Whisky. In 1920 M. Taketsuru from Japan spent 4 months at a Campbeltown distillery to train in pot still whisky. He wrote an extensive report, translated & published in 2021 by Dr. Herd, and started his Nikka Whisky in Japan (which now owns Ben Nevis of Scotland). Dr. Ruth Herd, Alan Wolstenholme. Centre for Languages, Culture & Communication. HERE also Ju22
Jun 9 Thu 9-10:30AM Coastal Travel. 5 speakers using William Daniell’s Voyage Round Great Britain in 1813. IHR HERE
Jun 9 Thu 12:30-2 Desirable and Undesirable Food: Early Modern Gentry Commensality and Food Choices. Anna Fielding. The Institute of Historical Research (IHR) HERE
Jun 9 Thu 1 The Tractor Wars in Iowa. Neil Dahlstrom. Iowa History 101. State Historical Society of Iowa HERE TAPE may be HERE
Jun 9 Thu 6:30-8 South Africa's Culinary History Through Cooking, Consumption, and Language. “culinary biographies” of five typical South African foods—Cape Malay curry, Biltong (dried, salted and spiced game meat), sadza (maize meal porridge), malva pudding, and wine.” Keri and Kelsi Matwick. Culinary Historians of New York $10 HERE
Jun 9 Thu 7-8:15 Beer: A Taste of American History. Theresa McCulla. Smithsonian Associates $25 HERE
Jun 9 Thur 9:30? Learning about food as intangible cultural heritage. “How can food tourism be used to preserve cultures and protect heritage?” Heygo HERE
Jun 10 Fri 2-4 Beer & Revolution. “links between beer, brewing and revolutionary movements.” Brewery Workers Union & London IWW. Hybrid HERE
Jun 10 Fri 2:30-4 Identifying Native Wild Edibles and Medicinal Plants in the Berkshires. Russ Cohen author of Wild Plants I Have Known…and Eaten. Honoring Our Indigenous Heritage: Native People, Plants, Pollinators series. Osher at Berkshire CC Mass. HERE (4 Sessions June 3,10,17,24)
Jun 10 Fri 5 What to Eat in Naples: A Culinary Saunter Along the Amalfi Coast. Francine Segan. Context travel conversations. Tape $26.50 HERE
Jun 11 Sat 1-2:30 The Secrets of Apitherapy: A Journey into the Healing Hive. “Our ancient ancestors valued honey bees and their various products not only as food but, just as importantly, as medicine. …with modern scientific research.” Dr Gerry Brierley. £15 HERE
Jun 11 Sat 1:30 The Kingdom of Rye: Russian Food and National Identity. Darra Goldstein. Culinary Historians of Southern California HERE
Jun 12 Sun 11 Extravirganza: The Olive Oil of Casa Caponetti. Stages to olive oil since the Etruscans to his organic farm/B&B/restaurant HERE in central Italy. He has a still-functioning pre-Roman water harvesting system and studied/ given talks on Etruscan (pre Roman) drainage tunnels and desert underground waterways in Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco. Lorenzo Caponetti. The Society of Fellows of the American Academy in Rome HERE
CALENDAR OF VIRTUAL FOOD HISTORY TALKS HERE
©2022 Patricia Bixler Reber
Researching Food History HOME
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