Monday, April 25, 2011

Easter Monday egg roll, egg cracking & throwing

Eggs have been decorated for centuries, with some intricate or memorable ones "preserved very carefully in the corner-cupboard ; each egg being the occupant of a deep, long-stemmed ale-glass, through which the inscription [one segment contained the name and age of the child recieving the egg] could be read without removing it." [The Every Day Book, William Hone. London: 1826] 

The eggs which were plainly decorated were made or bought for use on the Monday after Easter.  Boys would play games such as tossing an egg, egg rolling or holding the egg encased in their hand and hitting the end of the egg held by another.  The egg which cracked would be given to the winner.  Occasionally someone would cheat and use a wooden or marble egg.  Years ago my sons, now 25 and 26, had their own game after the Easter egg hunt... throwing the eggs at each other.

The White House Easter Egg Roll, going on this morning, follows the Easter Monday tradition.  The last quote, below, recalled a roll event on the Capitol grass, generally closed to the public, where over 5,000 attended, since Washington, D.C. schools closed on that day.

For more information on decorating 19th century Easter Eggs, Paas Eggs, Pasche Eggs, or Paste Eggs go HERE.

CRACKING EGGS ON EASTER MONDAY IN NEW YORK - 1836

In New-York, eggs, died or stained with a variety of colours, are displayed for sale on Easter-Monday, by grocers, hucksters, fruiterers, and other venders of edible refreshments. These are called paas-eggs, or pasch-eggs.

We cannot find that the custom of cracking eggs on Easter-Monday, as practised in New-York and some other parts of the United States, by the descendants of the Dutch settlers, is known among other nations. The game (if it be one) is played in the following manner :—

Both parties, we will suppose, are prepared for the contest, being already "supplied with the munitions of war ;" say, a dozen eggs each, carefully selected and scientifically tested, by striking the huits and points (the big and little ends, against the front teeth, in order to be certain that the shells are hard, strong, thick, stout, and if possible,"uncrackable." The challenger then encloses an egg in one of his hands, so that no part of it is visible except the point (or butt, as the conditions maybe), which does not protrude above the horizontal level of the circling thumb and fingers, but remains some distance below it, generally supported beneath by the palm of the other hand. Holding it m this manner, he challenges his antagonist to hit it with the point or butt of another egg. The shell of one of them must, of course, yield to the force of the concussion, and the cracked egg becomes the prize of the victor. In this manner, hundreds of eggs are lost and won in a short time ; and as the slight injury which they receive does not lessen their intrinsic value, the winnings are of some account to the victors.

Artificial eggs, curiously made of wood, marble, and other hard substances, are frequently used with such address as completely to deceive the eye, and thus the unsuspecting party falls an easy prey to tho artifice of his antagonist, and finds himself suddenly stripped of his capital, and put hors du combat, without being able to account for the misfortune. But wo betide the juvenile sharper should the trick be detected ! The scene exhibited on a certain race-course, between a certain prince and another jockey, would here be repeated on a smaller scale. Ten to one but an attempt would be made to crack something harder than eggs.
Festivals, games, and amusements: ancient and modern. Horatio Smith. NY: 1836

GAMES WITH EGGS ON EASTER MONDAY IN ENGLAND - 1826, 1849

At this day, the Easter eggs used in England are boiled hard in water containing a dye, so that they come out coloured. The boys take these eggs and make a kind of game, either by throwing [bowling] them to a distance on the green sward—he who throws oftenest without breaking his eggs being the victor— or hitting them against each other in their respective hands, in which case the owner of the hardiest or last surviving egg gains the day.
Chambers's Information for the people, William Chambers. Edinburgh: 1849

It will be readily supposed that the majority of pace eggs are simply dyed; or dotted with tallow to present a piebald or bird's-eye appearance. These are designed for the junior boys ... they are hurled to swift destruction. In the process of dying they are boiled pretty hard—so as to prevent inconvenience if crushed in the hand or the pocket. But the strength of the shell constitutes the chief glory of a pace egg, whose owner aspires only to the conquest of a rival youth. Holding his egg in his hand he challenges a companion to give blow for blow. One of the eggs is sure to be broken, and its shattered remains are the spoil of the conqueror: who is instantly invested with the title of " a cock of one, two, three," &c. in proportion as it may have fractured his antagonist's eggs in the conflict. A successful egg, in a contest with one which had previously gained honours, adds to its number the reckoning of its vanquished foe. An egg which is a "cock" of ten or a dozen, is frequently challenged. A modern pugilist would call this a set-to for the championship. Such on the borders of the Solway Frith were the youthful amusements of Easter Monday.
The Every Day Book, William Hone. London: 1826


CAPITOL AND WHITE HOUSE EASTER EGG ROLL - 1874 

THE most interesting part of the Easter festival for the children in Washington, and for many older people, too, is Easter Monday, when all the schools in the city are closed, and the little folks have leave to play on the grass in Capitol Park... It is the only day in all the year when they let people go on the grass.

Almost every one had Easter eggs — boiled hard and colored bright red, and crimson, and purple, and blue, and green, and brown, and many figured and covered with pictures, very pretty. They brought them in their hands, and in baskets, and some had as many as a dozen; and they at once commenced the game of rolling them down the grassy slopes, and when one got broken they would eat it. More and more children kept pouring in... and by noon there were more than five thousand, besides a great many grown people who came to look at them... They shouted and screamed and laughed, and chased each other, and rolled their eggs down the banks, and rolled down themselves after them.

Two high banks run around the Capitol building, one above the other, each about three times as high as a man, and as steep as the roof of a house; and the girls were running down and the boys rolling down those grassy banks all day long; and the number of tumbles they had could not be counted.

They have it so every year, and it is the same in the grounds around the President's house, and in the other parks. There must have been at least ten thousand tired and dirty children washed and put to bed in this city that Monday night; and it is feared that some of them were just a little cross. April 8, 1874.
Glimpses of places, and people, and things. Geo. C. Smithe. Mich: 1887

Image of White House Easter Egg Roll, 1889 in Library of Congress Prints.

©2011 Patricia Bixler Reber
http://www.hearthcook.com/

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Cries of London on fore-edge painting


This picture of "The Cries of London: Peas, Strawberries, Cherries," is painted on the fore-edge of the book Poems, by the late William Cowper, Esq. of the Inner-Temple. v2 London: 1820. It is in a phenominal collection of fore-edge paintings, from the Rare Books Department of the Boston Public Library, online HERE.

Fore-edge paintings are viewed by slightly fanning the page edges. When closed the edges of the page may be gold gilded. To view a video snippet of revealing the painting, see HERE, at Martin Frost's site, which also shows a Split Double Press, at right.  


For further information on the history of fore-edge painting check out the online copy of A thousand and one fore-edge paintings, with notes on the artists, bookbinders, publishers, and other men and women connected with the history of a curious art; by Carl J. Weber. Waterville, ME: Colby College Press, 1949. HERE

©2011 Patricia Bixler Reber
http://www.hearthcook.com/

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Food History Symposiums 2011 part 2

June 15-17 "Food and Drink: their social, political and cultural histories"
University of Central Lancashire UK
MORE INFO

July 8-10 Oxford Symposium "Celebration - 30 years of food thought"
St. Catherines's College. Oxford UK
MORE INFO

Sept 13-16 "The History of the European Food Industry in the 19th and the first half of the 20th century"
International Commission for the Research of European Food History. Bologna
MORE INFO

Nov 26-27 New Zealand Symposia for Food History. "The 1920s"
MORE INFO

MORE FOOD SYMPOSIUMS 2011 HERE

©2011 Patricia Bixler Reber
hearthcook.com

Friday, April 8, 2011

Queen Cakes and patty-pans

Queen's Cakes are little pound cakes with currants baked in small fluted pans. "These are done the same way as the plum-cake, only all the fruits (except the currants) are kept out, and they are baked in small-ribbed petty-pans." [The Practice of Cookery, Pastry, and Confectionary. Mrs. Frazer. 1820]

Although basically flour, sugar, butter, eggs, (the beaten eggs are the leavening) mace and currants, with sugar sprinkled on the top, the small cakes could also contain orange flower water [1725], rose water [1764], nutmeg [1787], or pounded almond flour or almond pieces [1827, 1764].

To make Queens Cakes. - 1725
"TAke a Pound of dry'd Flower, a Pound of refin'd Sugar sifted, and a Pound of Currans wash'd, pick'd, and rubb'd clean, and a Pound of Butter wash'd very well, and rub it into the Flower and Sugar, with a little beaten Mace, and a little Orange-Flower Water; beat ten Eggs, but half the Whites, work it all well together with your Hands, and put in the Currans; sift over it double-refin'd Sugar, and put them immediately into a gentle Oven to bake." [Court Cookery.  Robert Smith.  1725]

More details may be found in Moxon, 1764, which also had a recipe 'To make King Cakes' "... make them up in little round cakes, and butter the papers you lie them on."

"To make Queen Cakes. Take a pound of London flour dry'd well before the fire, nine eggs, a pound of loaf sugar beaten and sifted, put one half to your eggs and the other to your butter; take a pound of butter and melt it without water put it into a stone bowl, when it is almost cold put in your sugar and a spoonful or two of rose water, beat it very quick, for half an hour, till it be as white as cream; beat the eggs and sugar as long and very quick, whilst they be white; when they are well beat mix them all together; then take half a pound of currans cleaned well, and a little shred mace, so you may fill one part of your tins before you put in your currans; you may put a quarter of a pound of almonds shred (if you please) into them that is without the currans ; you may ice them if you please, but do not let the iceing be thicker than you may lie on with a little brush." [English Housewifry. Elizabeth Moxon 1764]

Queen cakes appear in confectioner's ads in the 18th and 19th century.  "Seymour's Coffee and Jelly House... Hartshorn jellies in perfection at 2 s per dozen; royal queen cakes at 2 d, chocolate at 2 d a dish, and Arrack made into punch, as cheap as rum or brandy..." [Gazetteer and Londan Daily Advertiser.  Oct. 16, 1756]

NAME

Many court chefs of the 17th and 18th century wrote cookbooks, some with the word Queen in the title: The Queen's Closet Opened [1654], The Queen-like Closet [1670], Queens Delight [1671] and The Queen's Royal Cookery [1713]. Dedications and recipes were named for a specific royal, such as "To make a Cake the way of the Royal Princess, the Lady Elizabeth, daughter to King Charles the first." "Queen's Pancakes" and "Queen Cake" appeared in Court Cookery, 1725, by Robert Smith who wrote in his forward that he cooked in the kitchens of King William under Patrick Lamb.

The French may have influenced the naming of Queen Cakes with recipes titled "Bisquite du Roy" [The Accomplisht Cook, by Robert May, 1685] and "Queen's Cake. Gateau a la Reine."

Queen's Cake. Gateau a la Reine.
"Beat a pound of sweet almonds; add a pound of sifted sugar, and four whites of eggs by degrees; when well prepared it may be made into different shapes, and decorated according to fancy; put it in a slow oven; glaze it as the genoises." [The Art of French cookery. Antoine B. Beauvilliers 1827]

King Cakes may have been a name source for the smaller Queen Cakes. Elizabeth Moxon, 1764 and Charlotte Mason, 1777 had recipes for both. Their King Cakes had currants, but were not the elaborate Twelth Night cakes.

PETTY PANS, PATTY PANS
Petty pans, patty pans, queen cake tins, little tins, teacups, or saucers were used to bake the small cakes.  The patty pans were tin, glass, 'table-china,' 'chinaware', 'blue and white,' or 'stone.'  18th Century newspaper notices in American papers listed patty pans in the ships cargo. One combined "...glass patty pans and salts..." [South Carolina Gazette Dec 9, 1774]. Twelve sold for 3 Shillings in 1780 London. [Gazetteer and New Daily Advertiser] The large numbers needed can be seen in an auction at a coffee shop in London, which listed for sale 292 patty-pans, 300 bowls, 550 plates, 5000 cups & saucers and other items.[General Advertiser  April 17, 1751] . 

The baked goods may have been left in the petty pans.  An interesting notice of a robbery at a London home included "two Apple Tarts in Stone Patty Pans." [Public Advertiser.  Feb 20, 1775]. The pans could be large. Charles Carter in 1749 said to "cut twelve large apples in halves, and take out the cores, place them on a thin patty-pan, or mazareen..." He also made a Goose Pye in a Patty-pan.

"QUEEN CAKES Are made exactly the same as pound cake; there are tin moulds made particularly for that purpose; they are to be had at any tin shop; the moulds should be well buttered, and when the cakes are baked the pans should be wiped while hot, and on no account washed." [A Complete System of Cookery. John Simpson 1816]

Moxon, 1764 in two non Queen Cake recipes said to "...cut them out with queen cake tins." For Queen's Cakes Leslie suggested "...small tins of a round or oval shape are most convenient. Fill them but little more than half." [Seventy-five receipts for pastry, cakes, and sweetmeats. Eliza Leslie 1830] Other options were to "...bake in small saucers, or fluted tins made for the purpose." [The Cook and Housewife's Manual. Christian Isobel Johnstone. 1828] or "...baked in small-ribbed petty-pans." [The Practice of Cookery, Pastry, and Confectionary. Mrs. Frazer. 1820]. Rundell suggested "...beat the whole an hour; butter little tins, tea-cups, or saucers, and bake the batter in, filling only half. Sift a little fine sugar over just as you put into the oven. ...Another way. Butter small pattypans, half fill, and bake twenty minutes in a quick oven." [A New System of Domestic Cookery. Maria Rundell, 1808]

"Before you fill your tins again, scrape them well with a knife, and wash or wipe them clean. If the cakes are scorched by too hot a fire, do not scrape off the burnt parts till they have grown cold. [Leslie, Eliza. Seventy-five Receipts for pastry cakes, and sweetmeats... Philadelphia: 1832]

ICING  

For Eliza Leslie's queen cakes, which also contain wine, brandy, rosewater or lemon: "Make an icing with the whites of three eggs, beaten till it stands alone, and twenty-four teaspoonfuls of the best loaf-sugar, powdered, and beaten gradually into the white of egg. Flavour it with a tea-spoonful of rose-water or eight drops of essence of lemon, stirred in at the last. Spread it evenly with a broad knife, over the top of each queen-cake, ornamenting them, (while the icing is quite wet) with red and green nonpareils, or fine sugar-sand, dropped on carefully, with the thumb and finger." [Leslie, Eliza. Seventy-five Receipts for pastry cakes, and sweetmeats... Philadelphia: 1832]

"Make an icing... and spread two coats of it on the queen cakes. Set them to dry in a warm place, but not near enough the fire to discolour the icing and cause it to crack. Queen cakes are best the day they are baked." [Leslie, Eliza. Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches. Phila: 1840]

"...you may ice them if you please, but do not let the iceing be thicker than you may lie on with a little brush." [English Housewifry. Elizabeth Moxon 1764]

©2011 Patricia Bixler Reber
http://www.hearthcook.com/